Day 9 : Koh Tao

We got up after listening to the sounds of the waves and decided to look for breakfast. Chris did not want to eat at the hotel and wanted to see the big beach of Phangan. After a little bit of coaxing he got me back on the little death machine, also known as a scooter. After one minor meltdown on the bike, on my part--we were going up and down these large hills--we eventually got to our destination, Haad Rin. It was a pretty beach, but it was more or less deserted at that time. This  beach is famous for large and intense parties every full, half, and no moons (they clearly like to party).

We eventually found a place to eat breakfast and I ordered a delcious coconut shake. I cannot get over the access to fresh fruit here. And I should mention the fresh fruit is unreal in that the flavors are powerful, divine, and cheap. If you are going to Thailand take advantage of the fruit and the fruit shakes!

After we walked on the beach and hung out a bit before heading back. I wasn't as terrified on the way back and enjoyed the ride. I even tried my hand at driving it.

I did not want to leave the island, but we already had reservations on Koh Tao. When we went to return the bike we ran into an unexpected scam of the island. Apparently, as we learned first hand and from some other travelers later on, the running scam is to rent out bikes that may or may not have been set up by there owners to fall. And when the inevitable accident occurs, they'll try and bleed as much money out of the renter as possible. While we did not pay the original quoted price, we did end up paying more than we should have. As it turns out, if you go to the police or threaten to, you usually don't have to pay, because the owners know what they are doing is illegal. If you do decide to rent a bike on any of these islands here are a few tips: 1) Look at the tires. Do they have enough tread on them? Are the tires designed for more sandy and rocky roads? 2) If you fall, remember that you should pay for some of the damage, but no more than 1,000- 2,000 baht, 3) Wear the damn helmet and protect your brain, and 4) If you are being held up for money, threaten or actually go to the local police. Or if you have a nice hotel person ask them to help you. Remember, almost everything monetary, for good and for bad, is negotiable. 

After that experience, we were ready to leave and jumped on a boat to Koh Tao. We ended up at the In Touch Resort. I did not think it was possible, but I LOVED Koh Tao. I want to retire there. Such an amazing and beautiful place. If you are into diving, snorkeling, or just a kicked back beach vibe, then this is your island. I can also sing nothing but the highest praises for the resort. The restaurant was amazing, the view from their deck was awesome, and the people were beyond friendly. It was also very cheap! The bathrooms are a little rustic and you should be somewhat comfortable with bugs (only in the bathroom). But remember you are in tropical paradise, bugs are native to this environment!

Chris had been begging for a massage since we landed, so we found a place overlooking the ocean and both got Thai massages at "AC Massage" for around $18 for the two of us.

The view from the massage parlor.

That night we ate on the deck (see above) and then walked around. We bought tickets to go on a snorkeling tour around the island for the next day (x-mas eve) and decided to call it an early night!

-N

Day 8: Island arrival, Ko Phangan

Our morning flight was from Don Meuang airport down to Surat Thani province. This quirky little airport had been our gateway to Phnom Penh. It has a golf course right off the tarmac - odd! It was a quick jump down to Surat Thani city, which is mostly a transportation hub town. We found a bus/ferry combo at the Raja Ferry kiosk and were quickly whisked onto the bus. You have to travel to Donsak pier first to get to any of the islands.

The whole process, while utilizing three separate transport means (air, bus, boat) was actually very easy and enjoyable. And, aside from the gross-out sounds of a woman puking her guts out from seasickness on the ferry, it was a seamless process and we were at our next hotel by early afternoon.

Ko Phangan is the so-called "middle child" island, between Ko Samu and Koh Tao, and also between them in size. With white-sand beaches and waterfalls, it also hosts occasional parties on Haad Rin beach like the famous full-moon party. We had reserved a beach-side bungalow at V-View on the southwest side. It was a dreamy, relaxed atmosphere and really the highlight of the whole island for us. The staff was friendly and the travelers were in full chill mode.

We relaxed in the hammocks and swam in the ocean for a couple hours. Then, perhaps to Nicole's dismay, my restless desire for more activity-based fun soon took hold and I asked to rent a motorbike from the guest-house. Soon, a woman and her two children showed up with two motorbikes. We told her we only wanted one, she charged 200 baht for 24 hours, and made me sign a paper and hand over my passport in exchange. Her little one was cute running around with a helmet.

We were soon on our way to explore the island after putting a couple of liters in the tank. Many little shops by the roadsides in Thailand sell recycled bottles full of gas. But, while getting the feel of the bike and its turning style, I misjudged a turn and went into some sandy, bumpy road. We slid onto the bikes side, scraping the side up and popping a mirror off. My right arm was road-rashed along with my right knee and Nicole's hand. Shaken, we got back on and continued. We tried to make it up through the middle of the island but Nicole didn't like the elevation and curves of the road (she had a point) so we decided to turn back, filling the tank on the way.

note my stubborn determined look

We grabbed some Mexican food and margeritas for dinner at a place called Ando Loco which was excellent and a nice break from Thai food. Relaxing on the beach at night was awesome and we could watch movies playing out on the beach at the place next door to us. We went to bed and, after laughing at some lines from "Tropic Thunder" drifting their way into the bungalow, fell asleep.

- C